The Laptop Gardener

Window Sill Gardening with African Violets and Gesneriads

African violets and members of the gesneriad family such as the gloxinias, Streptocarpus, and lipstick plants will thrive in conditions that are easy to achieve in most homes once some basic environmental conditions are addressed.   Window sill gardening is not free of challenges, but these are not insurmountable and overcoming them makes the rewards that much nicer.  One of these challenges is dealing with light levels that vary depending on the window orientation and time of year.  Indoor gardeners may have to use a compromised window for plant growth that is not the ideal situation.  Supplemental (artificial) light may be the answer to this problem.  Another challenge is the temperature of the growing area.  The best light might be up against the window which is also the coldest location.  Gesneriads are sensitive to cold and hot temperatures that are beyond a comfortable range.  Indoor environments during the winter also have the challenge of low humidity levels.  This is one of the easier challenges to overcome by using a humidifier. 

 
Normal home temperatures that are comfortable for people are well suited for gesneriads.  During the daytime, temperatures should be between 20 and 25 degrees (67-75 F.) Celsius for most of these plants.  A five degree drop in night time temperatures is ideal and may even encourage blooming.  It is critical for gesneriads to avoid excessively hot or cold drafts from an open door, fireplace or furnace vent.  Generally, a comfortable environment for humans will be suitable for these plants. 

 Most gesneriads are from tropical parts of the world, although there are some semi-hardy members such as Ramonda which is from the high altitude mountainous regions of Asia, Europe, and South America.  The most common member of the gesneriad group is the African violet (Saintpaulia ionantha) which is from the Tanzania and Kenya region of east Africa.  African violets in their native habitat grow on the banks of streams or as epiphytes on trees.  About 2,000 cultivars in white, pink, red, blue, violet, cream and yellow colours have been developed as a popular indoor plant.  Many advancements have been made to the original plant found in Tanzania which was a light to dark blue colour.  Other gesneriad family members are the trailing lipstick plants (Aeschynanthus species) which are epiphytes from the sub-tropical forests of the Himalayas, south China, Malaysia, Indonesia, and New Guinea.  From the tropical rain forest of the “New World” in Brazil come the goldfish plant (Nematanthus) and gloxinias (Sinningia species).  Gloxinias are gesneriads that have a single fleshy tuber. When the dry or cold season arrives in their native environment, the foliage dies down but the tuber remains alive.  When weather returns that is more suitable for growth, the plant starts to grow from the energy reserves in the tuber.  An interesting plant that is a tuberous gesneriad is the cupid’s bower or hot water plant (Achimenes).  This easy-to-grow plant is dormant during the winter and springs to life in the spring.

 African violets, the most famous gesneriad family member, were discovered by Baron Walter Von Saint-Paul in 1892 in Tanzania.  Upon its arrival to Europe it received the botanical name of Saintpaulia ionantha.  The genus name obviously commemorating its discoverer, but the species name is from the Greek language meaning “having flowers like the violet’s”.  This gave rise to the common name of African violet which give the impression that this plant is a true violet.  African violets are not a violet; they just looked like one to people back in the early 1900’s.   These plants soon became favoured because of its small size, free-flowering abilities, and ease of growth.  This has continued for over a century as more and more people are attracted to the wide variety of cultivars now available.  African violets have now become the most popular flowering indoor plant.  They now come in white, blue, purple, red, and yellow colours with bicolor, ruffled, or double petals.  The foliage might be green, reddish or variegated and leaf margins are sometimes finely serrated, ruffled, or lobed.  To add another dimension, there are now very popular African violets that are miniature and even trailing types. 

 One of the keys to getting African violets to bloom is to have adequate light levels.  Many gesneriads will not produce flower buds if the light intensity is not high enough.  The amount of light that is present on a cloudy winter day is the minimum amount needed to produce blooms.  To ensure that plants receive as much of this natural light as possible, set them in a south or southwest facing window during the winter months.  They must be moved to an east or north window during the summer months because the stronger rays may cause damage to the leaves.  In the summer, an alternative to a south window is to set the plants back away from the window or behind sheer drapes.  Another note is that the sun’s rays striking African violets from one side will cause the plant to grow lop-sided.   Turn your plants one quarter of a revolution each week to preserve their symmetry.  An easier solution might be to grow African violets (and other gesneriads) under fluorescent lights.  This is the only solution for gardeners who do not have south facing windows during the winter.  Fluorescent lights will provide an even distribution of light and can be used with a timer to ensure that African violets get more than 12 hours of light so that they will continuously bloom. 

 African violets are native to an environment that is warm and humid with temperatures that do not drop below 18 degrees Celsius (65 F.).  Keeping temperatures around 25 (77 F.) during the day and five degrees lower at night will be sufficient for good growth and flowering.  Dropping the temperature five degrees at night will produce larger flowers with more petals and brighter colours.  The ideal humidity, between 40 and 60 percent, is often a challenge to achieve during the winter.  Low humidity levels will cause leaves to curl and become crisp at the edges.  Bloom quality may decline too.  To help solve this problem, place a shallow tray of water near the plants so that it will evaporate and humidify the air, group plants together, or use a humidifier nearby.

 Watering African violets the right way is a technique that will pay off with big flower rewards.  Use room temperature water that has sat for several hours to let the gaseous water treatment chemicals leave.  Water early in the day so that the plant is not excessively wet during the night.  Water as soon as the soil surface feels dry to the touch.  Add enough water to the top of the pot so that it runs out the bottom and into the saucer below.  Let this sit for about one hour and then drain the water from the saucer.  African violet roots are susceptible to damage from overwatering, drought, and cold water.  Some gardeners insist that watering from the bottom is the correct way to water gesneriads.  This can be done if careful attention is paid to the amount of time plants sit in the water.  Root damage can happen fast.  Watering from the top also flushes out fertilizer salts so that they do not build up in the soil. 

 Fertilizers for flowering indoor houseplants should have a higher phosphorous number.  This is the middle number of the ratio.  Fertilizing with a weak solution every time the plant is watered will provide a more constant feeding for the plant.  Use one-quarter strength (or less) depending on the frequency of watering.  A dormant plant that is not blooming or coming into bloom should not have any fertilizer. 

African violets (and most gesneriads) should be grown in a sterilized, light soil mixture that is peat-moss based.  Air space in the soil is very important for healthy roots.  The best pots for growing gesneriads are the ordinary plastic ones.  These will hold moisture well and are light to pick up.  Clay pots may accumulate salts around the rim that could damage African violet stems.  African violets can stay in the same (3-4 inch) pot for years because these plants do not have an extensive root system. In time the plant, with its overhanging leaves, may seem very out of scale to the pot.  When the plant is 3 times wider than the pot, it is time to move it up to the next larger sized pot.  Repotting should take place in the spring.  Let the plant dry out slightly so that the leaf petioles are somewhat flexible before repotting or else they may snap off.

More Great Windowsill Plants That are NOT African Violets

The lipstick plant is a trailing gesneriad family member botanically called Aeschynanthus.  Most of the flowers in this group are bright red or reddish-orange and tubular in shape.  One type, Aeschynanthus lobbianus has a flower structure when in bud that looks like a burgundy lipstick case that is winding open to reveal bright red lipstick inside. 

Sinningia (gloxinia) is a large and diverse group of plants that contains the large showy trumpet flowers of the florist gloxinia.  Also included are miniature plants that are not much larger than a quarter. 

 Episcia are a gesneriad group that are grown more for their colourful foliage than for their small, single flowers.  Episcia ‘Cleopatra’ is one of the favourites because of its leaves which are pale pink, white, and light green.  It is very striking but a challenge to grow because of its requirements for a terrarium-like environment with warm temperatures, constant moisture and high humidity.  Other Episcias, such as the ones with coppery-green foliage and red flowers are easier to grow.  Treat these like African violets. 

 Newish to the gesneriad scene are the Chiritas which are mostly from damp, semi-shady sites in tropical China.  Some people like Chirita sinensis for its leathery, silver foliage, but other members of this family are also attractive for their beautiful lavender, white or yellow miniature Gloxinia-like flowers. 

 The gesneriad genus called Nematanthus sometimes has a common name of gold fish plant for its small orange, puffy flowers.  The orange fish shaped blooms are a nice contrast to the glossy dark green foliage of their mainly trailing plants. A minimum temperature of 15 degrees Celsius will keep these plants sporadically blooming through the winter. 

 Achimenes are easy to grow tuberous plants that are dormant during the winter and have showy blooms in a wide range of colours during the summer.  If these plants inadvertently become too dry during their flowering phase they will just go into dormancy early.  Let them rest in a dry location with temperatures above freezing and they will be ready to bloom the following summer.  This plant has a common name of hot water plant because water is just about all that this plant needs to spring to life.

 Dainty tubular blooms that hand down from downy, upright plants are characteristics of the Kohleria genus.  This plant also has an underground rhizome and goes dormant similarly to Achimenes. 

 The Streptocarpus group of plants are becoming increasingly popular for people who want easy-to-grow houseplants.  These plants, also known as cape primrose, are best grown in the same conditions as African violets.  They have long strap-like leaves and numerous showy blooms held high above the leaves. 

 Columnea are mainly trailing plants that have masses of brilliant flowers cascading from along the stems.  For maximum production of flowers, water this plant sparingly during the fall for six weeks.  Once flower buds appear, water columnea regularly.

Pretty Pansies

It is instant color time in the garden with the addition of pansies, Johnny jump-up (Viola tricolor), or violas! These short-lived perennials are excellent autumn and winter grown plants for the garden. They are usually treated as winter annuals and enjoyed while the tropical plants spend the winter inside or dormant.

The cheerful, round blooms of pansies clear, penciling lines or with blotched faces. What’s not to like!

Many pansies are faintly scented with early morning or dusk being the best time to give them a sniff test. The yellow or blue pansies are reputed to have the strongest scent. Plant many together to concentrate their fragrance or plant them in containers close to a main door.

Great for containers, garden beds, window boxes, etc. with a huge range of colors to coordinate for your designing pleasure.

Pansies love the cool & cold weather. Snow and ice may temporarily slow down their blooms but it won’t stop these tough winter wonders. Many series are hardy to 10 degrees F. Plants were totally encased in ice during our last ice storm and they bounced right back in my garden. Some pansies may exhibit a purple coloration on their leaves during cold weather. Pansies will thrive until the weather turns hot. Most pansies do not tolerate hot and dry weather conditions.

The best conditions to grow pansies are in full sun to part shade with well-drained, organic, compost rich soil. Plant them in the garden anytime from late November (whenever it starts to cool down) through early spring.

Pansies are usually trouble-free but sometimes are attacked by downy or powdery mildew, crown or root rot. Slugs, snails and aphids are potential pests if pansies are grown in shady and moist conditions.

Water them well after planting and mulch to conserve moisture. Fertilize once a month with an all-purpose flowering plant food. Deadhead the finished blooms to keep the plant blooming.

Did you know that there is a town called Pansy in Texas? It is in Crosby County and is named for the attractive flower. Did you also know that pansy flowers are edible (use the ones grown organically).

Cultivars:

Accord Series (large) 8 colors
Crown Series (medium) 9 colors
Crystal Bowl Series (multiflora) 11 colors
Imperial Series (medium) 5 color mixes
Joker Series (medium) 4 colors
Lyric Series (large) 5 colors
Majestic Giants Series (large) 6 colors
Maxim Series (multiflora) 14 colors
Medallion Series (large) 6 colors
Padparadja (multiflora) 1 color
Roc Series (medium) 9 colors
Springtime Series (medium) 17 colors
Swiss Giants (large) old fashioned 5 colors
Universal Series (multiflora) 13 colors

Frangipani, a wildly tropical plant; in name and exotic looking foliage and flower, is a contrast of sorts. The foliage pre-bloom is coarse and the stems lanky, but once the plant opens even one flower – all that changes and the plant becomes a tropical blooming beauty. With exquisite flowers having a richness and depth of color that few flowers can achieve, Frangipani adds “icing to the cake” with an enticing citrusy, cocoa butter/cinnamon fragrance to the garden as well.

Frangipani blooming in Zilker Botanical Garden, Austin, Texas in May

The plant is known as Plumeria, named in honor of the seventeenth century French botanist, Charles Plumier who travelled to the Antilles and Central America recording many plants and animals. At the age of 16 he joined the religious order of the Minims in France and devoted himself to mathematics and physics. After being sent to Rome, Plumier began to study botany and once he returned to France, he began work exploring the coasts of Provence and Languedoc. At the age of 43 he went on his first botanical expedition to the French Antilles. It was a success and he was appointed royal botanist. During his three botany expeditions he was the first to identify and describe the beautiful Fuchsia. The genus name in his honor was originally spelled Plumiera (and some still use this spelling).

The common name, frangipani comes from a sixteenth-century Italian nobleman, the Marquis Frangipani who invented a method of perfuming gloves that came to be known as Frangipani gloves. When the Plumeria flower was discovered, the scent reminded people of the fragrance Frangipani used to scent gloves and so the name began to be associated with the plant too. Another theory for the frangipani name is that the white Plumeria sap resembles the French product frangipanier, a type of coagulated milk.

Plumeria is just a small genus of 8 species originally native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. The plant was frequently transported by Spanish Catholic priests as they travelled to new areas. Each species has different leaf shapes and growth habits. Many species have naturalized in southern and southeast Asia.

Plumeria is in the Apocynanceae (dogbane) family with oleander and periwinkle. The family contains mainly tall trees found in the tropical rainforests. Plumeria is a deciduous shrubs or small tree here in Central Texas, but in tropical regions Plumeria can grow up to 30 feet high and wide. Plumeria, like Oleander has some poisonous properties, but is not nearly as bad as some of the other family members. The milky sap, found in all plant parts is irritating to the skin, just like many Euphorbias.

Frangipani blooming in Langkawi, Malaysia

The beautiful flowers are admired for their deep and rich in coloration and beautiful shading. Mostly Plumeria flowers can be found in combinations of whites, yellow, corals, pinks, and purples from March through October. New curly blooms have been introduced to add a new twist to the pinwheel effect of the blooms as they unfold. Some cultivars have up to 200 blooms in a cluster (others only 50). The flowers are used for making leis in Hawaii.

Flowers are most fragrant at night in order to lure the sphinx moths to come pollinate them. But, interestingly no nectar is contained in the flower. The moths pollinate the flowers as they search from one to the next looking for the non-existent nectar.

Frangipani can be propagated by taking 4 inch to 1 foot cuttings of the thick stems, allow them to dry off for two weeks (like a cactus) and then sticking them into a gallon pot of a mixture containing 2/3 perlite and 1/3 peat or potting soil. Add a coarse draining material (like pea gravel) on the top 1 inch of the pot. Water well, then let the soil dry before watering again. Spring cuttings will take about 90 days to produce a full root ball – when they can be transplanted.
Plumeria seeds are not true to the parent plant, but if you are willing to experiment to find new colors – this is the way. The reds and pinks apparently reveal the greatest variation in color. The few Plumeria seeds produced have a long narrow wing attached to the seed. Insert the seed so that it is under the soil and the wing is sticking above the soil. Keep the potting soil moist and germination should take place in about 21 days.

Grow Plumeria in full sun (or at least 6 hours) for the best blooms. It is one of the most sun and wind tolerant of the tropical plants. Plant it in well drained (particularly during the winter), organic soils. Prune the plant during the active growing season. Try to prune for a pleasing shape but this is not often possible because of the natural way that Plumeria grow. The leaves tend to grow only near the branch tips and few branches are produced. Pests are few, but sometimes scale is a problem and rot when too much moisture is present around the roots.

Fragrant Frangipani at sunset in Langkawi

Plumeria are not very winter hardy – only to zone 9. Protect from cold damage when temperatures dip below 40 deg. F. and especially if frost is forecast. Use frost cloth or mulch inground to ensure that the roots will overwinter in Central Texas. Grow in a pot and move to a protected location. Often the cooler weather will cause the leaves to drop in the fall. If temps drop below 32 deg. F. plant stems turn to mush. Some frangipani growers bury their plants underground to protect them from the winter cold temperatures. The cultivar ‘Texas Sunshine’ is reputed to be one of the most cold tolerant (to 25 deg. F). Other supposedly hardy Plumerias are ‘Celadine”, ‘Aztec Gold’ and ‘Samoan Fluff.’

There are over 300 named varieties of Plumeria.

Winter Garden Concerns

Early winter ice storms won't harm this pansy flower but other plants may be damaged

Unseasonably low temperatures within the next couple of weeks will damage plants that are not fully “hardened-off” or those that are marginally hardy. This is particularly true in our area of unreliable snow cover. Gardeners cannot be guaranteed the insulating protection of snow.

Other situations that might cause havoc on plant health this winter are a quick thaw in January or February resulting in flooded areas over the frozen soil. A quest to keep roads and paths clear of snow and ice means that mountains of salt and sand are spread each winter. Heavy snow is another concern. Evergreen trees laden with snow may look picturesque but early season, waterlogged snow could bend the branches leaving them permanently misshapen. Wind scorch is an unappealing sign of the harshness of winter, but it is one of the less damaging factors. A more serious concern is the damage caused by mice gnawing on tender plant stems. This is usually not noticed until plants are struggling to grow the following season.

Early winter snows can damage plants that aren't ready for the sudden chill

Preventing damage due to low temperatures is often beyond the control of gardeners. Fluctuations below the annual average low temperature are to be expected during most winters. Gardeners can only hope that their plants have hardened off or are protected in a microclimate and will be able to withstand an early cold spell. Plants are better able to survive if there has been a gradual decrease in temperature instead of a sudden sharp drop. To have reliably hardy plants that are not damaged by low temperatures, select plants that can grow in temperatures that are 2 hardiness zones colder than your garden’s zone. This is wise advice, but it is hard to follow. There are so many exciting marginally hardy plants that make tempting the fates of nature hard to resist. Identify microclimates in your garden where these tender plants can have a bit of protection from the winter weather. A building or evergreen hedge can create such a microclimate.

The January thaws have a positive psychological effect on humans, but are deadly for some plants. The freezing and thawing cycle caused by daytime temperatures above 0 degrees C. and freezing nighttime temperatures is hard on many perennials and some thin-bark trees. Plant tissues expand during the day and contract during the night. For thin-bark trees like the London plane tree, this causes a split in the bark on the southwest side. Often this repeated freezing and thawing prevents the split from healing until spring arrives. For perennials that grow from a crown or are newly planted, the freezing and thawing action might heave them out of the ground. This will leave them exposed to the drying effects of the sun and wind. Inspect your garden during the January thaws and gently press plants back into the soil.

A less frequent injury caused by the winter weather is flooding damage. This is often a short-term problem in late winter when the ground is still frozen and the first heavy rains arrive. Many low-lying areas can be filled with standing water for days. Healthy plants are able to withstand a limited amount of flooding. During late winter, trees are still dormant and little oxygen is exchanging through the roots. A short duration of flooding should not harm them. Willows, bald cypress and alders are more resistant to flooding damage.

Heavy layers of ice can damage just as much as wet, dense snow.

Wet, heavy snow is a potential problem at the beginning and end of the winter. This type of snow can cause damage to evergreens or hedges. These plants that do not have strong stems to withstand the weight of snow or because of their shapes, do not shed the snow as it piles up. Boxwood that has not been trimmed is especially prone to snow-load damage. Heavy snow or ice will force the branches downward and leave gaping holes in the shrub that might be permanent. Some cedars (Thuja) and pencil point type junipers might also be damaged. Snow loads could also damage hedges that have been trimmed with a flat top. Minimize the amount of horizontal surfaces that are present on weak-stemmed hedges. Creating a slight angle on the sides is an excellent solution to this problem. To prevent snow-load damage on upright plants, support the branches with fine netting or tie up the plant like a Christmas package with garden twine. In many cases, a broom will work to remove the snow before it becomes heavy enough to weigh down the branches.

The cold, drying winter winds can damage some broad-leaf evergreens, especially Mahonia (Oregon grape). Winter weather causes browning of the outer edge on exposed leaves. In the spring the plant will send out new growth to cover this browning, but it looks bad for a time. Other conifers such as those with golden-coloured foliage and dwarf Alberta spruce might also suffer browning from drying winds and sun during the winter. Plant these in a location where they receive protection from the south and west, use an anti-desiccant spray, wrap them with burlap, or live with the temporary discolouration.

So what can be done to battle the latest weather anomaly? Pretend that the garden has been transported to England or change the calendar to April? The best action is to prepare plants wherever possible for the winter. Hill roses, mulch perennials, and line with burlap where it has been done in previous years. A little effort to give some protection will be well worth it.

Perennials in the Garden for Fall and Winter Interest

Looking for ideas on how to design an attractive garden for the overlooked winter season usually means wading through lists of trees and shrubs for the most attractive fall foliage colour and winter form.  With a little luck, there might even be a few days of colourful berries to peak interest before birds or cold temperatures change the view.  After a few minutes the  lists become quite monotonous with two key plants; winterberry holly and red twig dogwood.  When many gardeners are faced with staring out the window for what could be months at the frozen landscape, it is important to broaden our list of winter interest landscape plants.

Snowy winter scene in upstate New York

There are many more plants that can add interest to the picture than Ilex and Cornus.  Very little attention is paid to the plants at our feet. This group of overlooked plants are the perennials. Perennials can offer very interesting effects during the fall and winter as a result of their attractive seedheads. Some perennials have strong semi-woody stems that will stay upright through the entire winter, while others will give a good display through the fall and early winter before rain, wind and snow cause them to lean with casual artistry.

The showiest feature perennials offer through the snowy winter months is attractive seedheads. Wind blowing the tall stems of Eupatorium maculatum (Joe-Pye Weed) will make them sway like a living curtain. Another reason for leaving perennials standing in the fall is to see the contrast between the dark colours of many plant stems and the light colours of falling leaves and snow. The dark, woody seedpods of Iris sibirica (Siberian Iris) are very interesting when the three sectional capsule is surrounded by yellow birch leaves that have fallen around the clump. Leaving perennial seedheads intact after their flowers have finished blooming also is a benefit to wildlife. Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower) is excellent for attracting finches and sparrows to the garden that are looking for food. An additional ornamental benefit to leaving perennials unpruned once they have finished blooming is that many have attractive seedheads that can be dried for fall or winter bouquets.

The following perennials are recommended because they have attractive properties in the fall and winter.

Acanthus spinosus (Spiny Bear’s Breeches) remains attractive long after the mauve-white flowers have fallen. The seedheads have the same nodding shape of the flowers. They are held high above the foliage and remain quite attractive into the fall. The spiny foliage may even remain semi-evergreen through the winter if they are in a mild enough location (with snow cover).

Many of the Achillea (Yarrow) have attractive upright, sturdy seedheads that look effective during the beginning of the winter. Since the fall is a time that Achillea often reblooms, many flowers are smaller and stems are not as sturdy as earlier in the season. Still some cultivars are excellent for fall and winter interest. Liatris spicata (Spike Gayfeather) also has attractive seedheads. Liatris has a fluffy, brown upright spiky structure that has good holding power into the winter.

Yaupon holly after a February ice storm

The best time for Alchemilla mollis (Lady’s Mantle) seed displays is just after blooming early in the summer. Heavy rains during the late summer and fall will often cause the weak seedheads to lie horizontally. This in itself can be attractive in the winter as the tan star-shaped seeds are held above the leaves. One of the potential disadvantages of leaving the seedheads on these plants is that Lady’s Mantle will self-seed extensively the following year. Coreopsis verticillata (Threadleaf Coreopsis) also has attractive seeds and will also self-seed if they are left on the plant over winter. This is a small price to pay for an attractive winter display.

The pink blooms of Anemone hybrida (Japanese Anemone) seem to be everywhere lately. So many new and improved cultivars are finding their way to the garden centres that they are finding their way to many gardens. Japanese anemones are excellent for late season blooms (almost until the frost!). Some of the early blooms may even progress into seed heads that open to reveal attractive white cottony seeds.

Angelica is an interesting plant. The most commonly grown ornamental species is Angelica gigas. If this plant is allowed to flower and set seeds it will die and act like a biennial. If the plant is allowed to flower and the seeds removed before they mature, the plant acts like a short-lived perennial. If the plant is grown as a biennial, some of the seeds may germinate and start to grow the following year. If it is left to set seed, the resulting form is a very dramatic. It resembles a tall umbrella-like structure that could reach 2 metres in height.

Some perennials will actually live through the winter better if they are not pruned in the fall. Artemisia (Silver Sage) and Filipendula (Queen of the Prairie, Meadowsweet)
are two of these plants. Do not prune these plants in the fall. Leave them through the winter and clean them up in the spring. Some of the taller blooming cultivars may “recline” during the winter but this is a small price to pay for increasing plant survivability.

 Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) has orange blooms that progress to small milkweed-shaped seedpods late in the summer and fall. These split open in the fall to release silky topped seeds. If seed-collecting admirers can be encouraged to leave the pods, these plants are quite attractive. This might be a lost cause since so many want this plant for their garden.

Salvia left unpruned in the fall has a better chance of survival through the winter and the seedheads add winter interest.

Fall and asters go together like tulips and spring. One plant that is an exceptional introduction is Aster frikartii ‘Monch’ (Monch’s Frikart Aster). This is a shorter, earlier aster that has very little trouble with pests and diseases. Leaving the seedheads standing makes sense for several reasons. Chief among these reasons are for winter architectural effect, for feeding the birds and to increase its winter survivability. A white flowering aster-like plant called Boltonia asteroides ‘Snowbank’ (Bolton’s Aster) and the tall, yellow blooms of Patrinia scabiosifolia can also be treated this way.

Many astilbe including Astilbe arendsii have attractive plume-like seed structures that create an excellent vertical accent effect through the winter. These plants also fare better if the foliage and seedhead is not pruned in the fall. Chelone lyonii (Turtlehead) is also a plant that should not be pruned in the fall. Do the clean up for both of these in the spring.

The foliage and flower stems of Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Leadwort) will provide an attractive display through the fall and winter. The main reason for leaving this plant standing is to mark its location the next spring. Ceratostigma is unusually late to emerge and often waits until it is time to plant annuals before it peeks from the soil. Having some remnants of the plant still present means that that it will not be disturbed while it is dormant.

The tall seedheads of Cimicifuga racemosa (Bugbane), star-shaped seeds of Dictamnus albus (Gasplant) and the horizontal structures of Crocosmia (Montbretia) provide attractive interest if they are left standing during the winter.

Getting Dendranthema (Chrysanthemum) and Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower) to overwinter is often a tough task under the best of conditions. Leaving the entire plant standing in the fall will help with winter survivability. Even though the plants often have a sprawling way of growing, this does add interest when the snow flies. Letting cardinal flower self-seed increases the chance that some plants may overwinter (even if it is as seed).

Two architectural plants that add dramatic interest during the summer, fall and winter are Echinops ritro (Globe Thistle) and Eryngium planum (Flat Sea Holly). Both of these plants are known to self-seed if the seedheads are left on the plant. If self-seeding is not a problem in the garden leave these plants alone until the spring so that the round and spiny structures can be fully appreciated.

One of the unsung treasures of the perennial border are the Gaura lindheimeri cultivars (Butterfly Gaura). These plants have months of light airy dancing blooms and once the frost comes; they have attractive red tints on the flower stems in the late fall. These turn brown during the winter.

Getting Papaver orientale (Oriental Poppy) to have seed pods for winter interest is a battle. Most often the seed pods are harvested in the summer and fall for floral arrangements instead of leaving them on the plant. With such an attractive seed pod who can blame the early harvesters?

January view at the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center, Austin, TX

Silvery stems and seedheads are the reward during the winter for leaving Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage) standing until the spring. Since this plant likes to grow with a mass of divergent stems, the effect is quite interesting. Prune Russian sage to 15 cm (or lower) in the spring if killed to the ground by cold weather.

Both the excessively tall Rudbeckia nitida ‘Herbstsonne’ (Black-eyed Susan) and the shorter coneflower perennial staple called Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’ might fall over during the worst winter weather. Nonetheless the “coneflowers” are excellent winter interest plants because of their seed structures and the birds love to feast on the seeds.

One of the best winter interest perennials are the Hylotelephium ‘Herbstfreude’ AKA Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’. The brown spent flowers hold up very well to rain, snow and ice (and look great during all of these conditions). Often the seedheads look so good that they are used in early spring flower arrangements. Don’t touch them at all in the fall.

Several other perennials are attractive during the winter because of their evergreen foliage. These are Ajuga reptans cv. (Carpet bugleweed), Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose), Heuchera sanguinea (Coralbells), Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender), Teucrium chamaedrys (Germander), and Thymus serpyllum (Mother-of-Thyme).

St. Joseph’s Lily, Hardy Amaryllis, Johnson’s Amaryllis, Bouquet Amaryllis

The stunning St. Joseph’s Lily (Hippeastrum x johnsonii) that is so fondly associated with many Southern gardens originated as a chance cross between Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) vittata and A. reginae  (both originally from South America).  One of the first hybrid Amaryllis, it was perhaps unintentionally crossed by Arthur Johnson, a British watchmaker from Prescott in Lancashire between 1799 and 1810.  First described and illustrated in 1816 by Pierre-Joseph Redoute, the plant was originally called Amaryllis brasiliensis and later referred to as Amaryllis johnsonii in 1831.  The bulb could have been lost during the early days, but luckily Mr. Johnson shared his new plants with the Liverpool Botanic Garden before his greenhouse was accidently destroyed, along with everything inside.  The plant made its way into cultivation in the US by the mid 1800s.  And now after almost 200 years and few nursery offerings, the bulb is being propagated by Tony Avent using tissue culture and should be more readily available now.

Hardy Amaryllis aka St. Joseph

St Joseph’s Lily is a true passalong plant and garden heirloom, spreading from neighbor to neighbor or through family ties in the South.  It is a plant that can often be found blooming in abandoned homesteads and older cemeteries.  In Perennial Garden Color, Dr Bill C. Welch calls them “living antiques because they are tangible symbols of success for generations of Southern gardeners.  Many have been lovingly handed down among the families that contribute cultural diversity and richness to our gardens.” Many call this bulb the finest amaryllis for Southern gardens.

This tough plant is one of the hardiest amaryllis and is hardy to zone 7 (maybe even zone 5 or 6 with heavy mulch protection).  It requires little care and is a member of the “takes a licking and keeps on ticking-blooming plants”.  The ease that it returns to bloom each spring and multiplies (perennializing here) without much or any attention is one of the nicest attributes of this plant and makes it a great “first plant” for younger gardeners.  It slowly spreads by bulb offsets without being invasive.

The leaves are thick masses of evergreen, semi-evergreen or deciduous (depending on the winter temperatures), strap-like foliage up to 30” long.  In Central Texas, the leaves usually don’t die back and stay evergreen.  In the sun, the foliage has a coppery hue.  Plant height is a dramatic 24” tall when blooming.  Some gardeners report this bulb is avoided by deer.

St. Joseph’s lily blooms in late winter to early summer (usually March-April here), has a spicy fragrance and often has 5-6 blooms per stalk.  The bright red tepals (undifferentiated petals and sepals) with white “stars” on the throat form large trumpet-shaped blooms.  Some mature bulbs can have up to 4 stalks (~24 blooms) on one plant and many bloom for a month.

The plant has average water requirements during the year and will even go dormant in the summer if there is less water.  To avoid rotting the bulb, do not overwater it.  It is a good xeric plant that can survive hot, dry summers.  Either irrigate this plant during the summer to keep the foliage healthy or let it go dormant.  Tolerant of full sun to part shade.  Soil pH is ideal when acidic to neutral (5.5-7.5) and good drained is preferred.  This bulb is more tolerant of heavy clay soils than other Amaryllis – but good drainage is needed in colder locations during the winter.

Like all amaryllis, St. Joseph’s Lily can be grown indoors but it is a little more finicky than the modern types and doesn’t bloom as well in a pot.  The cut flowers can last a week or more in a vase.

The most popular type of propagation for gardeners is separation of the bulblets in the fall.  They can be started from seed, but being a hybrid the offspring will probably be different than the mother plant. The plant rarely sets seed.  Sow seed as soon as it is ripe.  A wholesale tissue culture lab in Eustis, Florida called AG3 is now propagating this plant in greater quantities than previously done.  At present it is rarely available in the nursery trade and can command $18 for one very large bulb, but with tissue culture, there should be many more available at a reduced price.

It is believed that the common name St. Joseph’s Lily is in reference to its blooming time which coincides in some areas with St. Joseph’s Day on March 19^th.

Striking red and white blooms of the St. Joseph's Lily

Fun with Useless Garden Trivia Stuff?!??

Do you know the difference between Corylus and Corylopsis? Well you don’t have to know the answer for this fun gardening trivia quiz. Gardeners or garden lovers eager for some fun investigation and a chance to test their knowledge of vegetables, perennials, trees, annuals, pests, weeds and indoor plants are invited to tackle the following quiz. (The answers are in the next post.)

Vegetables
1. That warm feeling from hot peppers is measured in units that honour the man who discovered the complicated way to measure the heat of peppers. What are the units that measure pepper heat?

2. Zucchetta Rampicante is an heirloom vegetable vine from Italy. What type of vegetable is it?

3. Some tomatoes are true vines that don’t stop growing until the frost. Are they determinate or indeterminate plants?

4. This vegetable has many personalities. When it is growing in the herb garden it is often called Chinese parsley. When the seeds are gathered for mildly spicy casseroles and baked goods it is called coriander. Used fresh or dried in India it is called dhania. What is it called when the leaves are harvested for salsas and salads?

Perennials
5. The flowers, stems, leaves and seeds of foxgloves are very attractive but deadly. What makes this popular perennial so harmful?

6. Whirling butterflies is the cultivar name of a perennial with dancing blooms on long wiry stems. The flowers open whitish pink and turn rosy pink as they age. What is the plant?

7. Some perennials have a colour identity problem. Purple coneflower is not really purple it is pink. ‘Husker Red’ is a foxglove penstemon that in real life has maroon tipped leaves and soft lavender flowers with white throats. What is the flower colour of a vigorous groundcover called Lamium ‘Beacon Silver’?

8. Why is Physostegia called the obedient plant when it spreads so disobediently?

9. Ligularias have big, bold leaves that often look like wilted lettuce in the garden. Where would this plant be happier?

Trees
10. Black walnut trees exude a toxic material from their roots to exclude other broad-leaved plants (including their own seedlings) from growing nearby and providing competition. What is the toxic substance?

11. The oil from the roots of a tree native to most of the eastern part of the United States and Southern Ontario was originally used to flavour root beer. What is this tree with mitten shaped leaves?

12. This massive native tree has a botanical name that is derived from the Greek word “leirion” meaning lily and dendron meaning “tree”. Native peoples used the tall straight trunks of this tree for large canoes carrying 20 people or more. The attractive yellow and orange flowers bloom in late May and early June. What is this tree?

13. What tree is the official tree of Maine and Ontario, Canada?

14. Aucuparia is part of a botanical name for a small tree or tall shrub meaning “I catch birds”. What is this plant?

Annuals
15. This ornamental plant in the annual garden still produces a few tubers like its close relatives found in the grocery story vegetable section. What is it?

16. Deadheading is a term for a frequent practice done by anyone growing marigolds, geraniums and zinnias. What is happening to these plants?

17. One of the most popular cannas for dramatic effect has bronzy purple and yellow striped leaves and orange blooms. What is the name of this canna?

18. This annual is called false Queen Anne’s Lace or Bishop flower for its cluster of lacy white blooms. How tall does it grow?

19. Zinnia flowers come in a rainbow of colours. What unusual colour is the one called ‘Envy’?

20. Where in the world is annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus) native?

Garden Challenges
21. Which voracious green caterpillar can reach 4 inches (10 cm) in length while devouring the vegetable garden?

22. These dime size black spots form on the upper surface of maple leaves during the second half of the summer. What is this called?

23. Which four houseplant and tropical-attacking insects excrete a substance called honeydew?

24. Cutting both ends out of a metal soup can and pushing it 2 inches (5 cm) into the lawn is a good way to tell if an underground insect is present. Which serious lawn pest potentially floats to the top a few minutes after water is added to the can?

25. A white dusty coating on a lilac leaf is a fungus disease. What is it?

Weeds
26. This vine, shrub or groundcover plant has three leaflets, white berries and small greenish-white blooms. Most people regret coming into contact with the plant’s sap. What is the plant?

27. The stems on this weed are triangular. It loves to grow in moist, sandy fields or gardens throughout most of the warm and temperate zones of the world. What is it?

28. This weed looks like a scouring brush because it has no leaves, flowers or seeds. It reproduces by spores and spreads by underground stems. The stems can easily be pulled apart at the nodes and put back together like interconnecting pipe. What is the name of this plant?

29. Ragweed has inconspicuous male flowers that produce huge quantities of light pollen that can fly in the wind for more than 125 miles (200 km). This plant is the most important cause of hay fever allergy suffering during which two months?

30. Poison hemlock, goutweed, Queen Anne’s lace, and water parsnip all belong to the same family of plants. What is this family called?

Indoor and Tender Plants
31. What is the botanical name for weeping fig?

32. Frangipani is a large tropical plant known for its colourful blooms and outstanding _________.

33. Bromeliads belong to the same family as this popular tropical fruit. What is the famous bromeliad family member?

34. The looking glass tree is named for its silvery mirror-like foliage that reflects the sun. What is this tropical tree?

35. Kiss-me-quick or yesterday-today-and-tomorrow is the name of a tropical shrub that has flowers that are pale violet when they first open. After a day the fragrant flowers change colour to white. Which plant is this?

Garden Trivia Answers are Revealed

The suspense is over for all fun-loving gardening trivia buffs. Here are the answers to the trivia quiz and in some cases an explanation.

Peppers

Vegetables
1. That warm feeling from hot peppers is measured in units that honour the man who discovered the complicated way to measure the heat of peppers. Pepper heat is measured in Scoville Units in honour of Wilbur Scoville who invented the scale in 1912.

2. Zucchetta Rampicante is an heirloom vegetable vine from Italy. It is a summer squash or zucchini.

3. Some tomatoes are true vines that don’t stop growing until the frost. These are indeterminate because they don’t stop growing once they start flowering.

4. This vegetable has many personalities. When it is growing in the herb garden it is often called Chinese parsley. When the seeds are gathered for mildly spicy casseroles and baked goods it is called coriander. Used fresh or dried in India it is called dhania. It is called cilantro when the leaves are harvested for salsas and salads.

Perennials
5. The flowers, stems, leaves and seeds of foxgloves are very attractive but deadly. The chemicals deslanoside, digitoxin, digoxin, and digitalis glycosides make this popular perennial so harmful.

6. Whirling butterflies is the cultivar name of a perennial with dancing blooms on long wiry stems. The flowers open whitish pink and turn rosy pink as they age. The plant is called Gaura lindheimeri.

7. Some perennials have a colour identity problem. Purple coneflower is not really purple it is pink. ‘Husker Red’ is a foxglove penstemon that in real life has maroon tipped leaves and soft lavender flowers with white throats. A vigorous groundcover called Lamium ‘Beacon Silver’ has pink blooms and silver foliage edged in green.

8. Physostegia is called the obedient plant, not because it stays contained but because the flowers move on a hinge and stay in place.

9. Ligularias have big, bold leaves that often look like wilted lettuce in the garden. The plant would be happiest in a cool and moist location.

Trees
10. Black walnut trees exude a toxic material from their roots to exclude other broad-leaved plants (including their own seedlings) from growing nearby and providing competition. They exude a toxic substance called Juglone.

11. The oil from the roots of a tree native from Maine to New York and Michigan and south to East Texas and central Florida was originally used to flavour root beer. This tree with mitten shaped leaves is called Sassafras.

12. This massive native tree has a botanical name that is derived from the Greek word “leirion” meaning lily and dendron meaning “tree”. Native peoples used the tall straight trunks of this tree for large canoes carrying 20 people or more. The attractive yellow and orange flowers are blooming now. The tree is Liriodendron or tulip tree (yellow poplar or tulip poplar).

13. Maine and Ontario’s official tree is the Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobes).

14. Aucuparia is part of a botanical name for a small tree or tall shrub meaning “I catch birds”. The plant is a mountain ash that has fruit that are used to catch birds in Europe.

Annuals
15. This ornamental plant in the annual garden still produces a few tubers like its close relatives found in the grocery story vegetable section. The ornamental vegetable is sweet potato vine (Ipomaea batatus).

16. Deadheading is a term for a frequent practice done by anyone growing marigolds, geraniums and zinnias. The term refers to the act of removing the spent flowers.

17. One of the most popular cannas for dramatic effect has burgundy purple leaves with red and yellow striped leaves and orange blooms. This canna is called  Tropicanna, ‘Orange Durban’ or ‘Phaison’.

18. This annual is called false Queen Anne’s Lace or Bishop flower for its cluster of lacy white blooms. It is Ammi majus and it will grow to 75 cm (30 inches).

19. Zinnia flowers come in a rainbow of colours. What unusual colour is the one called ‘Envy’? ‘Envy’ is a delicate shade of green.

20. The annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus) is native to South Africa (Cape of Good Hope area).

Garden Challenges
21. A voracious green caterpillar can reach 4 inches (10 cm) in length while devouring many items in the vegetable garden. This is the tomato hornworm, which is a sight to see and hear chewing.

22. These dime size black spots form on the upper surface of maple leaves during the second half of the summer. This unattractive yet relatively harmless disease is called tar spot.

23. There are four houseplant-attaching insects that excrete a substance called honeydew. These are aphids, scale, mealybug and whitefly.

24. Cutting both ends out of a metal soup can and pushing it 2 inches (5 cm) into the lawn is a good way to tell if an underground insect is present. Chinch bug is the serious lawn pest potentially floats to the top a few minutes after water is added to the can.

25. A white dusty coating on a lilac leaf is a fungus disease called powdery mildew.

Weeds
26. This vine, shrub or groundcover plant has three leaflets, white berries and small greenish-white blooms. Most people regret coming into contact with the plant’s sap because it causes itchy blisters. It is called poison ivy.

27. The stems on this weed are triangular. It loves to grow in moist, sandy fields or gardens. It is the troublesome weed called yellow nutsedge.

28. This weed looks like a scouring brush because it has no leaves, flowers or seeds. It reproduces by spores and spreads by underground stems. The stems can easily be pulled apart at the nodes and put back together like interconnecting pipe. It is called horsetail and is quite persistent.

29. Ragweed has inconspicuous male flowers that produce huge quantities of light pollen that can fly in the wind for more than 125 miles (200 km). This plant is the most important cause of hay fever allergy suffering during August and September for many people.

30. Poison hemlock, goutweed, Queen Anne’s lace, and water parsnip all belong to the same family of plants. These plants are in the carrot or parsley family (Apiaceae or Umbelliferae)

Frangipani

Indoor and Tender Plants
31. What is the botanical name for weeping fig? Ficus benjamina.

32. Frangipani is a large tropical plant known for its colourful blooms and outstanding fragrance.

33. Bromeliads belong to the same family as this popular tropical fruit. The most famous member of this family is the pineapple.

34. The looking glass tree is named for its silvery mirror-like foliage that reflects the sun. The tree is called Heritiera.

35. Kiss-me-quick or yesterday-today-and-tomorrow is the name of a tropical shrub that has flowers that are pale violet when they first open. After a day the fragrant flowers change colour to white. The shrub is called Brunfelsia.

Fruitful Fruits of the Fall

The end of the growing season is the time to enjoy the fruits of the garden. Unveiled by the falling curtains of leaves are many shrubs and trees that brighten the landscape with vivid fruit. Some of the fruit stays for a lengthy time (like sumach) but many others attract feathered admirers and could vanish in an instant once they are discovered. This is the best time to appreciate the showy features of some overlooked (and underused) plants in our landscape. This summer has been quite good for the production of fruit on many plants.

One shrub to admire is the Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea). Firethorn produces heavy clusters of orange-red fruit that have the brilliance of fire. The fruit, which has beacon-like properties, can be seen for a great distance because of the contrasting dark green foliage. This shrub is sometimes trained as an espalier form against a wall or fence.

Porcelain berry (Ampelopsis brevipedunculata) is a surprise attraction in the fall garden. This relative of the grape vine does not justify its existence all summer. It has a lacklustre leaf and borders on being too rampant. Finally after a lot of patience from the gardener, it starts to redeem itself in October. The small, green pea-shaped fruit starts to ripen and turn a light blue colour. It then turns darker blue and finally it changes to a purple colour. This transition happens at differing speeds so that all colours are present on the vine at once. The beauty of this vine is this remarkable array of colours. Unfortunately, the foliage (until it falls) hides some of the fruit. The first week of November is usually the best time to see the display of lilac to amethyst-blue coloured fruit when it is most showy just after the foliage has fallen.

Virginia creeper is a durable, reliable vine that is often dismissed as a garden plant because it is viewed as being old-fashioned. The vine botanically is called Parthenocissus quinquefolia and has dark blue berries that hang down in miniature grape-like clusters. This fruit is also most effective after the leaves have fallen. The fruit stays on the vine through the winter and appeals to many birds as a secondary source of food.

Euonymus are not one of the shrubs that would normally be considered for a list of fruiting plants. Some cultivars of Euonymus fortunei have an adult form that matures to produce flowers and fruit. The fruit is a creamy-white capsule that opens to reveal several round seeds that have an attractive orange-red coating. The fruit is a late winter meal for birds. The cultivar ‘Vegetus’ has large, green, rounded leaves and is quite reliable about producing bright orange seeded fruits.

The rich, red seedheads of the Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) bring back memories to many people of fall hikes through local parks. The fall glory of this large native shrub is from the berries that also delight some 93 species of birds. The colourful fruit can be seen (if the birds don’t eat it) from October until the new flowers appear in May.

Cotoneasters are a valuable groundcover shrub that have become slightly overused in larger landscaping sites. Some of the smaller types are ideal for home gardens and have attractive fruit during the fall and early winter months. One of the best (and most popular) is the rockspray cotoneaster (Cotoneaster dammeri ‘Coral Beauty’). This variety will reliably produce a heavy crop of fruit. The leaves are a glossy, dark green colour which is a nice complement to the fruit. Another valuable groundcover plant is Cotoneaster horizontalis. It has low, horizontal branches that are great for growing over a wall or down a slope. In the fall it is decorated with small, round, scarlet fruit.

The shrub called winterberry (Ilex verticillata) is a true holly that has deciduous leaves. The yellow-bronze foliage falls in early November revealing small red fruit clustered along the stems. The showy fruit gleam like red Christmas lights. This interesting plant is native to an area from Nova Scotia to western Ontario and is hardy from zones 4-9. Each plant is either male or female and both must be nearby to produce fruit. The best growth occurs in a location that has moist, acidic soils although it is growing well in alkaline soils at the Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens. This shrub is valuable in the landscape because it is somewhat shade tolerant. More than twenty-two types of birds will feed on the fruit and eventually strip it clean in early winter.

One shrub that has fruit that the birds do not touch is the European Cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus). The vivid, red, berries are bitter and distasteful to birds and humans. The fruit persist into the winter and eventually look like dried, shrivelled, red raisins.

As an alternative, the native shrub called High bush cranberry or American Cranberrybush (Viburnum trilobum) has similar clusters of bright red fruit that is prized by thirty four species of birds. This tall shrub is hardy to zone 2 and has fruit that can be harvested for making preserves or jellies.

Crabapples are a natural to include on a list of plants with notable fruit. Of all the numerous cultivars of crabapples, Malus ‘Red Jade’ is one of the best small trees for showy flowers and attractive fruits. It has small, bright, cherry-red fruits that last well into winter. They resemble a crop of maraschino cherries hanging on the tree branches. The weight of the fruit makes the naturally pendulous branches weep even further. It is a beautiful sight.

The white fruits of snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) hang on the barren stems in early winter. The small shrub is most effective when it is planted against a backdrop setting of evergreens. Once again, the fruit show best in early winter just after the leaves have fallen.

The mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia) has brilliantly coloured fruit in the fall but rarely has it into the winter. Invariably, word spreads that the fruit is present and a flock of cedar waxwings will strip every fruit from the tree in an instant. There are new cultivars appearing in the nursery that have white, yellow, orange, or coral coloured fruits.

Beautyberry, as the name suggests, is a plant with outstanding fruit. Botanically it is Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii. This shrub is originally from China and came into cultivation in western gardens at the turn of the century. The fruit on this shrub are a rich lilac-purple colour. The fruit are produced in small, delicate clusters close to the stems. The best time to appreciate the beauty of the fruit is just after the foliage has fallen in early November.

Whatever the fruiting plant, design your garden so that the fruit (and feasting birds) can be seen and appreciated from your house window. Many plants are particularly attractive if they have a dark green backdrop of evergreens to accentuate their brilliant display of fruit.